Monday, November 21, 2011
Our therapy dog workshop
On Saturday, nine Pit Bulls and their owners participated in Chako Pit Bull Rescue's therapy dog workshop in Sacramento. What an awesome group of dogs and handlers. Chako's very own Ozzie was one of the participants. We're so excited to see one of our rescued Pit Bulls taking the step toward becoming a certified therapy dog. Take a look at our photo album for more photos of our therapy dog workshops, and if you are interested in finding out about more Chako events, sign up for our Meetup!
Monday, September 26, 2011
Meet Henry: The Pit Bull pup who has gone through hell and still wags his tail happily
This is Henry. He came to Chako on September 26th after a kind couple found him wandering a parking lot in South Sacramento. A very large, oozing wound around his neck tells the tale of a collar (most likely) that was never removed as he outgrew it and ultimately embedded itself into his flesh. At some point, the collar probably broke, allowing Henry to break free.
Henry also has a serious case of what is likely demodectic mange, with probably secondary skin infections. His age is hard to estimate, given his condition, but his teeth are pearly white and brand new, so it's obvious he's still a pup.
Henry exists in agony. His skin is on fire. The gaping wound on his neck oozes constantly, and he shakes his head and paws at his face, giving a low, pathetic wail of a whine. Then, he passes out, asleep.
Right now, Henry is at the Missouri Flats veterinary clinic in Placerville, being cared for by Dr. Randy Robinson, a dog lover who has a soft spot for Pit Bulls. Chako is currently seeking donations to help us get Henry the care and treatment he needs (and his course of treatment will no doubt take months).
You can chip in at http://chako.chipin.com/henrys-care
Visit Henry on YouTube to see his kind eyes and wiggling/waggling little body.
Henry: Day One, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_vDAKfu7GA8
Henry: Waddles and Wags, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cEA6hvBb5uw
Monday, June 20, 2011
Would You Rather Spend an Hour in a Box or on a Tether?
We'll get straight to the point. Many people think tethering dogs is cruel. We don't -- if tethering is used correctly and humanely. Any containment method can be cruel if abused--especially the ever-popular crate! Before you hurl something at your screen, hear us out. If you still don't agree with us when you've finished reading, then post your disagreement in the comments. After all, Chako is all about open, reasoned discussion (versus name-calling and the throwing of rotten food).
We think a photo speaks a thousand words, so we're posting one to start off our discussion and get you thinking.
Is tethering more cruel than crating? It can be. We don't think any one method is inherently better than the other, but we do think all dogs are different and responsible owners should have all options available to them. We're happy to see the trend toward animal welfare laws, but in our zeal to help animals, humans have, in many cases, made their plight worse.
We used crates to bring our dogs indoors and give them a nice, den-like space to hang out and escape from pestering children and dive-bombing cats, and then we made these same crates primary containment methods for when we're at work. We outlawed tethering in many cases, making long-term crating and kenneling more common, and we've seen ever-increasing behavior problems in dogs as people work longer and longer hours and dogs are stuck in smaller and smaller spaces....or just left alone completely all day, every day, in a yard.
We'll start with a few examples of situations where tethering, kenneling, and crating might be used--because, let's face it, responsible dog owners have to keep their dogs safely confined to their property when they aren't there to supervise, and we haven't yet created a world where everyone can telecommute or bring their dogs to the operating room with them while they perform a seven-hour surgery.
Yes, most people have to work, and often there's not someone home all the time to take care of the dog (before you say only unemployed people or those home all the time should have pets -- go visit a shelter where dogs are euthanized by the thousands every year; a kind but imperfect home is much better than death).
If you have a fenced back yard, you can leave your dog alone in the locked back yard while you're working--unless your dog digs out, eats random things (rocks, mushrooms, etc.), worries at the fence, jumps the fence, or fence-fights with the neighbor's dog (who, of course, is always the instigator). And that assumes you live somewhere where people never steal Pit Bulls -- say, Antarctica.
If you want to make sure your dog has a safe area in which to hang out while you're away, what are your options? Leave him in the house? That's great, unless your dog tends to be destructive or has a hard time holding "it" for 8-10 hours (I know I do!). And, let's hope your dog doesn't decide to burn your house down while you're away.
You can have a doggie door that gives your dog free access to the backyard -- oh but that leads to the same problems as leaving your dog alone in the house or backyard (fence-jumping, digging, arson...).
You can get REAL fancy and have a doggie door that goes to a secure kennel area (with a top and dig-proof floor). Wow. Okay, you can probably stop reading now, just make sure to dog-proof the home to avoid those accidental fires or inappropriate chewing (think: drywall, electrical cords, carpet, your Prada shoes...the usual).
But if you're one of those who got a nice, big crate to keep your dog in for 8-10 hours, five days a week (you know, you had to work late those couple of times, or traffic was a bear!), keep reading. You stuff your dog in a box because, after all, tethering is cruel. Maybe you feel guilty enough to hire a pet sitter who relieves your dog for 30 minutes at the 4-5 hour mark of his or her confinement in a 48-inch box (we assume you got the largest crate they make to give your medium or large dog plenty of room to stretch, not a shipping crate you can barely stuff the dog into).
Let me ask your dog -- Hey, Fido, do you like spending 8-10 hours (minus the 30 minute break) in a crate? (You didn't know I was a skilled animal communicator, but I am, and the dog told me "No").
So, you now feel sufficiently guilty and decide to buy a larger outdoor kennel such as a 10x10 wire mesh one. It will have a cover and be dig-proof with chew-proof bedding and a tip-proof water bowl. You're awesome. Your dog will be much happier than those unlucky crate-bound dogs. But wait! You find out you have one of those rare escape-artist dogs that learns to get out of the kennel or keeps worrying himself silly at the reinforced wire mesh, breaking his teeth. (You weren't stupid enough to try the cheap chain link ones at Home Depot or Lowes, so your dog can't easily rip through the panels, which means teeth go bye-bye).
Well, now what? You can't keep your dog in a tiny box all day. You can't keep him alone in the house because he's just not trustworthy. He'll escape the backyard if left unattended (hint: you tried the hotwire, but he can just sail right over the five-foot fence without touching it). He hurts himself in a kennel or has learned to escape. You should have named him Houdini. If he gets out of your yard one more time, it may mean the end of his life, so what are you to do?
You decide to try a tether system, and thank goodness you live in a city where tethering isn't outlawed, because then you'd just have to dump your dog at a shelter and hope he makes it out alive--either that or hire a full-time pet sitter or pay for doggie daycare every day, but your job doesn't pay you that much and allow you to also keep up on the rent or mortgage. (And, as it so happens, one of the top reasons for people dumping their dogs in a shelter--or, even worse, on the street--is problems containing the dog--we don't agree with it, but it's a reality).
Having done your research, you get a 20-foot tether, put it in an area where it cannot get tangled or caught (and where the dog cannot hang himself accidentally) and where the dog has access to both shade and sun. It's within a fenced area to keep other animals out. You give him a nice, comfy bed and dog house, a large water bowl he can't tip over, some toys, etc. He can lay out in the sun or rest in the shade. He can chew on his dog-safe toys, drink fresh, cool water, and maybe even splash around in little kiddie pool you positioned just before the end of his reach. Of course, there's still the issue of someone stealing him, but with a good tether setup, you can help minimize that risk by positioning him out of sight.
In the kennel, your dog would have had 100 square feet of room in which to live during the day. With a 20' tether, your dog has 1256.64 square feet of room. That's over 1,000 extra square feet of room, and there's no wire mesh for your dog to break his teeth on. He can stretch, relieve himself, choose the most comfy location in which to rest and watch the world go by without kennel bars obstructing his view.
Then, and most importantly, when you get home, you take him for a nice, long walk or run, play with him with his favorite toy, feed him dinner, and snuggle up on the couch inside with him while you watch T.V. or play on the computer. He sleeps in your room, and his snoring only wakes you, oh, every 25 minutes.
If you think a responsible tether set up is cruel, then we challenge you to spend one hour in your dog's crate (again, this assumes you have the largest one they make for your medium to large dog and, if you don't, get one). Then, spend one hour outside attached to a tether, with part shade and part sun and something cozy to rest on (heck, throw in a kiddie pool!). In the comments, tell me which was the better experience. One hour can't compare to the eight-plus hours dogs often spend confined (but we're not kidding ourselves you'll try anything longer). However, if you are an over-achiever and really want to get into the experience, spend a full eight hours in the crate and then another eight hours on a tether and report your experiences.We know it will be more cramped for you than your dog, but it gives you a taste of confinement (and also remember that most people don't put their dogs in the largest crates available -- they put them in the smallest crates they can get away with because large crates are generally expensive and they take up lots of room).
The point we're making is not that one containment method is necessarily better than another, and we know that most people who tether their dogs aren't doing so humanely. They do it to keep the dog out of the way--out of sight, out of mind. The dogs are, essentially, abandoned outdoors and only given barely enough sustenance to survive (and sometimes not even that). But, you know what? Dogs can be just as abandoned in kennels, the garage, or, even more horrifically, crates.
Our point is that any containment method can be abused, and not every containment method is appropriate for every dog. Dogs are all different, and some may love to spend the day in their covered kennels while others adore their crates (but very few would choose to spend eight hours a day locked in one). The key to responsible pet ownership is to make your dog a member of the family. Dogs are social creatures. They need stimulation, interaction, play, and exercise every single day. They should not be left in kennels, crates, or tethers 7 days a week, 23.5 hours a day.
Don't think we're anti-crate. In fact, we love crates. They are awesome -- when used correctly. We just don't think dogs should spend forty to sixty hours a week in them. It is, in most cases, cruel to leave a dog in a crate for eight hours, five days a week. People do that and then wonder why their dogs have such behavior problems. (We know a few of you have dogs with medical issues that require crate confinement and those couch potato dogs that are unconscious--i.e., asleep--for 16 hours a day; you're excused).
What would happen to you, psychologically, if you were left in a shipping crate 40-60 hours every week? We know, some of you think your cubicles are pretty close to that existence, but let's face it, the law makes your employer give you meal and rest breaks and allow you to use the potty. Your dog has no such luxury. And while you're checking Facebook and blogs in your cubicle, your dog has finished all the peanut butter in her Kong hours ago and is now bored out of her mind with an uncomfortably full bladder.
How do you think your dog would prefer to pass the hours?
Like this?
Or this?
We think a photo speaks a thousand words, so we're posting one to start off our discussion and get you thinking.
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| This crate is a bit too small for its occupant, and many dogs spend time cramped in too-small crates. |
We used crates to bring our dogs indoors and give them a nice, den-like space to hang out and escape from pestering children and dive-bombing cats, and then we made these same crates primary containment methods for when we're at work. We outlawed tethering in many cases, making long-term crating and kenneling more common, and we've seen ever-increasing behavior problems in dogs as people work longer and longer hours and dogs are stuck in smaller and smaller spaces....or just left alone completely all day, every day, in a yard.
We'll start with a few examples of situations where tethering, kenneling, and crating might be used--because, let's face it, responsible dog owners have to keep their dogs safely confined to their property when they aren't there to supervise, and we haven't yet created a world where everyone can telecommute or bring their dogs to the operating room with them while they perform a seven-hour surgery.
Yes, most people have to work, and often there's not someone home all the time to take care of the dog (before you say only unemployed people or those home all the time should have pets -- go visit a shelter where dogs are euthanized by the thousands every year; a kind but imperfect home is much better than death).
If you have a fenced back yard, you can leave your dog alone in the locked back yard while you're working--unless your dog digs out, eats random things (rocks, mushrooms, etc.), worries at the fence, jumps the fence, or fence-fights with the neighbor's dog (who, of course, is always the instigator). And that assumes you live somewhere where people never steal Pit Bulls -- say, Antarctica.
If you want to make sure your dog has a safe area in which to hang out while you're away, what are your options? Leave him in the house? That's great, unless your dog tends to be destructive or has a hard time holding "it" for 8-10 hours (I know I do!). And, let's hope your dog doesn't decide to burn your house down while you're away.
You can have a doggie door that gives your dog free access to the backyard -- oh but that leads to the same problems as leaving your dog alone in the house or backyard (fence-jumping, digging, arson...).
You can get REAL fancy and have a doggie door that goes to a secure kennel area (with a top and dig-proof floor). Wow. Okay, you can probably stop reading now, just make sure to dog-proof the home to avoid those accidental fires or inappropriate chewing (think: drywall, electrical cords, carpet, your Prada shoes...the usual).
But if you're one of those who got a nice, big crate to keep your dog in for 8-10 hours, five days a week (you know, you had to work late those couple of times, or traffic was a bear!), keep reading. You stuff your dog in a box because, after all, tethering is cruel. Maybe you feel guilty enough to hire a pet sitter who relieves your dog for 30 minutes at the 4-5 hour mark of his or her confinement in a 48-inch box (we assume you got the largest crate they make to give your medium or large dog plenty of room to stretch, not a shipping crate you can barely stuff the dog into).
Let me ask your dog -- Hey, Fido, do you like spending 8-10 hours (minus the 30 minute break) in a crate? (You didn't know I was a skilled animal communicator, but I am, and the dog told me "No").
So, you now feel sufficiently guilty and decide to buy a larger outdoor kennel such as a 10x10 wire mesh one. It will have a cover and be dig-proof with chew-proof bedding and a tip-proof water bowl. You're awesome. Your dog will be much happier than those unlucky crate-bound dogs. But wait! You find out you have one of those rare escape-artist dogs that learns to get out of the kennel or keeps worrying himself silly at the reinforced wire mesh, breaking his teeth. (You weren't stupid enough to try the cheap chain link ones at Home Depot or Lowes, so your dog can't easily rip through the panels, which means teeth go bye-bye).
Well, now what? You can't keep your dog in a tiny box all day. You can't keep him alone in the house because he's just not trustworthy. He'll escape the backyard if left unattended (hint: you tried the hotwire, but he can just sail right over the five-foot fence without touching it). He hurts himself in a kennel or has learned to escape. You should have named him Houdini. If he gets out of your yard one more time, it may mean the end of his life, so what are you to do?
You decide to try a tether system, and thank goodness you live in a city where tethering isn't outlawed, because then you'd just have to dump your dog at a shelter and hope he makes it out alive--either that or hire a full-time pet sitter or pay for doggie daycare every day, but your job doesn't pay you that much and allow you to also keep up on the rent or mortgage. (And, as it so happens, one of the top reasons for people dumping their dogs in a shelter--or, even worse, on the street--is problems containing the dog--we don't agree with it, but it's a reality).
Having done your research, you get a 20-foot tether, put it in an area where it cannot get tangled or caught (and where the dog cannot hang himself accidentally) and where the dog has access to both shade and sun. It's within a fenced area to keep other animals out. You give him a nice, comfy bed and dog house, a large water bowl he can't tip over, some toys, etc. He can lay out in the sun or rest in the shade. He can chew on his dog-safe toys, drink fresh, cool water, and maybe even splash around in little kiddie pool you positioned just before the end of his reach. Of course, there's still the issue of someone stealing him, but with a good tether setup, you can help minimize that risk by positioning him out of sight.
In the kennel, your dog would have had 100 square feet of room in which to live during the day. With a 20' tether, your dog has 1256.64 square feet of room. That's over 1,000 extra square feet of room, and there's no wire mesh for your dog to break his teeth on. He can stretch, relieve himself, choose the most comfy location in which to rest and watch the world go by without kennel bars obstructing his view.
Then, and most importantly, when you get home, you take him for a nice, long walk or run, play with him with his favorite toy, feed him dinner, and snuggle up on the couch inside with him while you watch T.V. or play on the computer. He sleeps in your room, and his snoring only wakes you, oh, every 25 minutes.
If you think a responsible tether set up is cruel, then we challenge you to spend one hour in your dog's crate (again, this assumes you have the largest one they make for your medium to large dog and, if you don't, get one). Then, spend one hour outside attached to a tether, with part shade and part sun and something cozy to rest on (heck, throw in a kiddie pool!). In the comments, tell me which was the better experience. One hour can't compare to the eight-plus hours dogs often spend confined (but we're not kidding ourselves you'll try anything longer). However, if you are an over-achiever and really want to get into the experience, spend a full eight hours in the crate and then another eight hours on a tether and report your experiences.We know it will be more cramped for you than your dog, but it gives you a taste of confinement (and also remember that most people don't put their dogs in the largest crates available -- they put them in the smallest crates they can get away with because large crates are generally expensive and they take up lots of room).
The point we're making is not that one containment method is necessarily better than another, and we know that most people who tether their dogs aren't doing so humanely. They do it to keep the dog out of the way--out of sight, out of mind. The dogs are, essentially, abandoned outdoors and only given barely enough sustenance to survive (and sometimes not even that). But, you know what? Dogs can be just as abandoned in kennels, the garage, or, even more horrifically, crates.
Our point is that any containment method can be abused, and not every containment method is appropriate for every dog. Dogs are all different, and some may love to spend the day in their covered kennels while others adore their crates (but very few would choose to spend eight hours a day locked in one). The key to responsible pet ownership is to make your dog a member of the family. Dogs are social creatures. They need stimulation, interaction, play, and exercise every single day. They should not be left in kennels, crates, or tethers 7 days a week, 23.5 hours a day.
Don't think we're anti-crate. In fact, we love crates. They are awesome -- when used correctly. We just don't think dogs should spend forty to sixty hours a week in them. It is, in most cases, cruel to leave a dog in a crate for eight hours, five days a week. People do that and then wonder why their dogs have such behavior problems. (We know a few of you have dogs with medical issues that require crate confinement and those couch potato dogs that are unconscious--i.e., asleep--for 16 hours a day; you're excused).
What would happen to you, psychologically, if you were left in a shipping crate 40-60 hours every week? We know, some of you think your cubicles are pretty close to that existence, but let's face it, the law makes your employer give you meal and rest breaks and allow you to use the potty. Your dog has no such luxury. And while you're checking Facebook and blogs in your cubicle, your dog has finished all the peanut butter in her Kong hours ago and is now bored out of her mind with an uncomfortably full bladder.
How do you think your dog would prefer to pass the hours?
Like this?
If you're still pondering the merits of tethering versus other forms of humane containment, such as kenneling (in large kennels), read this Cornell study.
Join in the discussion by posting photos of yourself in your dog's crate on our Facebook page, which will totally freak out Rachele, our Social Media coordinator, because they won't be in albums, they'll just be *gasp!* on the wall! (We love you, Rachele!). Warning: We cannot be held responsible if you get stuck!
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| Chako founder Dawn tries out one of the larger crates. |
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| Vanessa, Chako's events coordinator, looks far too happy in the Vari Kennel with her bunny toy. |
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| Jackie tries out the Doggie Condo and looks much less happy about it than Vanessa does! |
Sunday, June 5, 2011
Pit Bull Friendly Toys
We're often asked what kind of toys are good for enthusiastic chewers like most Pit Bulls, and we're including a list and brief review of some of the best toys out there for Pit Bulls. Keep in mind, of course, each dog is an individual, and some dogs might be more merciful to their toys than others, so not all Pit Bulls need the strongest, toughest chew toys out there.
But if you have one that does, here's a list! Remember, always supervise dogs with chew toys, and inspect the toy frequently. If you have a multi-dog household, make sure dogs are given their toys separately, away from each other, to avoid a fight.
Plush Toys
But if you have one that does, here's a list! Remember, always supervise dogs with chew toys, and inspect the toy frequently. If you have a multi-dog household, make sure dogs are given their toys separately, away from each other, to avoid a fight.
Plush Toys
- Tuffie Toys are strong, reinforced plush toys. They are not indestructible, but they do come with toughness ratings that indicate their durability. We've found even those rated 8-10 usually only last an hour or so if left as a chew toy, but the more grabbable ones do make decent tug toys.
- Stuffingless toys make a great present for dogs that like to disembowl stuffies. While dogs still need to be properly supervised (as with any chew toy), the lack of stuffing yields a smaller mess and less chances of intestinal blockage (though of course dogs can still rip and swallow the fabric itself, which could lead to an expensive vet bill).
- Sherpa Toys with Chew Guard Technology last about fifteen minutes for determined chewers, but a bit longer for less serious plushie slayers.
- Nylabone Galileo Bones come in different sizes. The Wolf size seems to work nicely for the average sized Pit Bull (40-60 pounds), but many dogs also like the Souper size. These last a few days to a few weeks for most dogs, and the edges wear down, allowing you to see when it's ready to be thrown out.
- GoughNuts are fantastic toys that even the most serious chewers usually can't put a dent in, and if they do, there's a color coded interior lining that lets you see when the rubber is compromised. These are expensive, but worth the price since you probably won't have to replace it for a while. Be careful, though. These are generally heavy toys, so you shouldn't throw one at your dog.
- Hurleys are another rubber-like toy that stand up fairly well to heavy chewers, though they aren't as durable as the GoughNuts and Galileo Bones. They last a few days to a few weeks for most Pit Bulls, but they are a staple around here. Dogs like the soft toys, they are easy to throw (and much lighter than the GoughNuts), and the company will replace one if your dog destroys it (but you have to pay shipping).
- Black or Blue Kongs are generally decent options for chewers, but many dogs can tear through a black kong (especially if they find the "trick," which is to start at the big hole and work the rubber until pieces break off). However, black kongs are stronger than red kongs, and they are easy to stuff with natural peanut butter or other goodies to keep your dog occupied. Blue kongs have the advantage of being radio opaque, meaning if your dog swallows a piece, it'll show up on an X-Ray. Kongs come in different sizes -- Large or X-Large generally works best for most Pit Bulls.
Friday, June 3, 2011
Getting a dog and cat acclimated to one another
We've had lots of questions about how to acclimate a dog and to a cat, and we frequently refer people to a wonderful link on a great forum called Pit Bull Forum. It's just so much easier when someone else has taken the time to lay out all the information, complete with photos. We did get permission from the author (known as "Red") to post the information, and we're including a link back to the original post (which is a member-only area).
We employ a very similar method, including using very firm corrections if a dog shows aggression to a cat. We communicate firmly to our dogs that aggressive behavior toward the cat will not be tolerate while rewarding the appropriate behavior. The type of correction we normally use is a very firm verbal correction. The original Pitbullforum post is linked at the end of the article. I highly recommend that you check it out, and if you still have questions about it, then email us!
Recently I have been reading of folks having difficulties with their dogs and cats. I had experiences like that with a few dogs and especially Tigger, now mine but came here as a foster dog. Tigger tried to kill my cat on the second day she was here. I do not do any interaction so soon, my husband left the laundry room open and the cat got in Tigger's face. The only thing that saved the cat was a furniture. Both me and my husband had trouble holding Tigger and we were on top of her. She was in lalaland, all she cared about was to get the cat.
So I thought of sharing my experience and what I did, for what is worth. It was about 9 months of work, it did not happen overnight and no mistakes. Maybe it can help someone and avoid a dog to end up kicked out of the house and a dead cat. This is especially for foster homes since we are responsible for the dog we take in and our own pets.
The first rule is to know the risks of bringing home an uknown dog. Your evaluation at the shelter, AC of whatever the dog comes from is only a little snapshot of the personality, habits and genetic of the dog. Once the dog is in a different environment all the "problems" show up, things might change. If the injury or even loss of a pet (it can happen) will buy the foster dog a ticket back to the pound or worse then don't foster. It is a risk, plain and simple, but good management and commitment can save troubles.
After the accident I kept Tigger totally away from the cat for about 2 months. She knew it was in the house but I did not allow her to see it. This is to try to take her mind off of it a bit and get to know the dog.
Then I started to show the cat to Tigger trough a baby gate and not knowing if she would jump it she was also on a lead. I had treats and solid hold of the lead.I was waiting for the moment she looked at me, to praise her. The first time it took 40 minutes for a quick look. Tigger knew no commands so before this I started teaching "watch me". I like positive training to teach commands but I am also not very positive when it comes to house rules. The cat is something the dogs here cannot touch and I enforce it. I don't get physical and hurt the dog but I make it clear that they cannot eat the cat. Tigger was "corrected" with voice and pulled back when she lunged at the cat.
When Tigger looked at me the first time she got her treat and the cat was put away. I started doing this every day. Tigger would see the cat for 5 minutes every day.The beginning was quite frustrating and things looked less than promising.There was lunging at open mouth, screaming and major fits. A strong and determined dog trying to do something can be an hassle. I kept insisting on it.
In the meantime I found out that she was very food motivated so I would do the "cat sessions" before a meal.
To one look a few more followed. After a few months the baby gate came down and I would have the cat loose and Tigger on lead and I would walk her around the house. By then she knew "watch me" and associated lunging at the cat with trouble while looking at me would bring treats and ball time.
I decreased the distance very slowly since she was still trying to see if there was a way she could get a hold of the cat. That meant taking a step back and work from distance.
Tigger also saw the cat when she was crated and treats were thrown to her when she laid down and ignored the cat, along with vocal praise. When she finally stopped to lunge and pull toward the cat and I saw her focusing on me and the food I let her loose behind the baby gate and watched her, while the cat was on the other side of the gate. Tigger ignored the cat and walked away from the gate when asked.If she seemed too interested I would say "nah-ha" and she would step back and go lay down on her bed.This was around 5 or 6 months after she came here. Her body language in the cat's presence was starting to relax and she was able to play with her toys or chew on a bone behind the baby gate. With some experience we can read a dog before something happen and anticipate it and use postures to tell us what is going on.
Then Tigger was brought in the kitchen loose with the cat and me there, for 10 minutes or so each time. My husband was there also in case of problems.I had a bunch of treats and kept asking the dog to stay next to me. Each time she looked at the cat she was re directed with the voice and a treat was popped in her mouth.
Three months after that, Tigger was allowed to be loose in the living room and every room of the house with both me and the cat there.I would still offer treats and kept calling her to me but by then she wasn't showing dangerous interest in the cat.The cat was also relaxed around her.
At that point I felt that Tigger was ready to be with the cat without major problems so I increased the time they interacted.
This is how things are today, two years after the day she tried to kill my cat.Here she is asked to ignore the cat:
The same excercises were done with Jack who also try his best to get a hold of small animals. It is a year and one month that he has been here and it is about 2 months since he is allowed to be near the cat.
There are 4 dogs in this room and the cat is on the bed. Each one of them, except the little one, has prey drive and can't be trusted with any other small animal outside my house. If I leave the room the cat is not safe any more. I am very aware of it. One dog alone might not hurt the cat but with 3 of them it takes very little to get over excited, especially if the cat decides to move fast.
All this been said there is no guarantee that the dogs will never try to do something. Tigger will get any cat outside of the house, even mine. If my cat runs in the yard she will get it. Prey drive is something that cannot be eliminated on a dog. The rules only apply in my house and they are the result of months of work. I do not expect the dogs to "learn" not to be aggressive towards small animals but I do want them to follow some rules in my own house. Some dogs will never be able to be in the same room with a cat but I believe that many can get to that point, with the resident cat at least. forgetting that the way they behave inside the house is not going to affect their instincts. Outside the house it is fair game.
There is always a chance of accidents and someone can get hurt. My husband spent 4 days on IV and morphine for an infected cat bite. He had the cat in his arms and made the mistake to let him see Tigger, as he was walking outside. The cat remembered that same dog and bit my husband, trying to run for his life.
This is my experience and the way I approach foster dogs with high prey drive. It works for me, so far, granted I am willing to be patient and careful. It might not be the same with the next dog and there might be a serious accident. I am not telling anyone that it will work for you, but it is worth to give it a try at least. Mistakes can and will happen, to everyone. They teach us what we probably did not know how to manage. Sometime it is just bad luck so we have to be sure that we are ready to deal with things before we get ourselves and our own animals in trouble. And time, lots of time.
http://www.pitbullforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=34479
We employ a very similar method, including using very firm corrections if a dog shows aggression to a cat. We communicate firmly to our dogs that aggressive behavior toward the cat will not be tolerate while rewarding the appropriate behavior. The type of correction we normally use is a very firm verbal correction. The original Pitbullforum post is linked at the end of the article. I highly recommend that you check it out, and if you still have questions about it, then email us!
Recently I have been reading of folks having difficulties with their dogs and cats. I had experiences like that with a few dogs and especially Tigger, now mine but came here as a foster dog. Tigger tried to kill my cat on the second day she was here. I do not do any interaction so soon, my husband left the laundry room open and the cat got in Tigger's face. The only thing that saved the cat was a furniture. Both me and my husband had trouble holding Tigger and we were on top of her. She was in lalaland, all she cared about was to get the cat.
So I thought of sharing my experience and what I did, for what is worth. It was about 9 months of work, it did not happen overnight and no mistakes. Maybe it can help someone and avoid a dog to end up kicked out of the house and a dead cat. This is especially for foster homes since we are responsible for the dog we take in and our own pets.
The first rule is to know the risks of bringing home an uknown dog. Your evaluation at the shelter, AC of whatever the dog comes from is only a little snapshot of the personality, habits and genetic of the dog. Once the dog is in a different environment all the "problems" show up, things might change. If the injury or even loss of a pet (it can happen) will buy the foster dog a ticket back to the pound or worse then don't foster. It is a risk, plain and simple, but good management and commitment can save troubles.
After the accident I kept Tigger totally away from the cat for about 2 months. She knew it was in the house but I did not allow her to see it. This is to try to take her mind off of it a bit and get to know the dog.
Then I started to show the cat to Tigger trough a baby gate and not knowing if she would jump it she was also on a lead. I had treats and solid hold of the lead.I was waiting for the moment she looked at me, to praise her. The first time it took 40 minutes for a quick look. Tigger knew no commands so before this I started teaching "watch me". I like positive training to teach commands but I am also not very positive when it comes to house rules. The cat is something the dogs here cannot touch and I enforce it. I don't get physical and hurt the dog but I make it clear that they cannot eat the cat. Tigger was "corrected" with voice and pulled back when she lunged at the cat.
When Tigger looked at me the first time she got her treat and the cat was put away. I started doing this every day. Tigger would see the cat for 5 minutes every day.The beginning was quite frustrating and things looked less than promising.There was lunging at open mouth, screaming and major fits. A strong and determined dog trying to do something can be an hassle. I kept insisting on it.
In the meantime I found out that she was very food motivated so I would do the "cat sessions" before a meal.
To one look a few more followed. After a few months the baby gate came down and I would have the cat loose and Tigger on lead and I would walk her around the house. By then she knew "watch me" and associated lunging at the cat with trouble while looking at me would bring treats and ball time.
I decreased the distance very slowly since she was still trying to see if there was a way she could get a hold of the cat. That meant taking a step back and work from distance.
Tigger also saw the cat when she was crated and treats were thrown to her when she laid down and ignored the cat, along with vocal praise. When she finally stopped to lunge and pull toward the cat and I saw her focusing on me and the food I let her loose behind the baby gate and watched her, while the cat was on the other side of the gate. Tigger ignored the cat and walked away from the gate when asked.If she seemed too interested I would say "nah-ha" and she would step back and go lay down on her bed.This was around 5 or 6 months after she came here. Her body language in the cat's presence was starting to relax and she was able to play with her toys or chew on a bone behind the baby gate. With some experience we can read a dog before something happen and anticipate it and use postures to tell us what is going on.
Then Tigger was brought in the kitchen loose with the cat and me there, for 10 minutes or so each time. My husband was there also in case of problems.I had a bunch of treats and kept asking the dog to stay next to me. Each time she looked at the cat she was re directed with the voice and a treat was popped in her mouth.
Three months after that, Tigger was allowed to be loose in the living room and every room of the house with both me and the cat there.I would still offer treats and kept calling her to me but by then she wasn't showing dangerous interest in the cat.The cat was also relaxed around her.
At that point I felt that Tigger was ready to be with the cat without major problems so I increased the time they interacted.
This is how things are today, two years after the day she tried to kill my cat.Here she is asked to ignore the cat:
The same excercises were done with Jack who also try his best to get a hold of small animals. It is a year and one month that he has been here and it is about 2 months since he is allowed to be near the cat.
There are 4 dogs in this room and the cat is on the bed. Each one of them, except the little one, has prey drive and can't be trusted with any other small animal outside my house. If I leave the room the cat is not safe any more. I am very aware of it. One dog alone might not hurt the cat but with 3 of them it takes very little to get over excited, especially if the cat decides to move fast.
All this been said there is no guarantee that the dogs will never try to do something. Tigger will get any cat outside of the house, even mine. If my cat runs in the yard she will get it. Prey drive is something that cannot be eliminated on a dog. The rules only apply in my house and they are the result of months of work. I do not expect the dogs to "learn" not to be aggressive towards small animals but I do want them to follow some rules in my own house. Some dogs will never be able to be in the same room with a cat but I believe that many can get to that point, with the resident cat at least. forgetting that the way they behave inside the house is not going to affect their instincts. Outside the house it is fair game.
There is always a chance of accidents and someone can get hurt. My husband spent 4 days on IV and morphine for an infected cat bite. He had the cat in his arms and made the mistake to let him see Tigger, as he was walking outside. The cat remembered that same dog and bit my husband, trying to run for his life.
This is my experience and the way I approach foster dogs with high prey drive. It works for me, so far, granted I am willing to be patient and careful. It might not be the same with the next dog and there might be a serious accident. I am not telling anyone that it will work for you, but it is worth to give it a try at least. Mistakes can and will happen, to everyone. They teach us what we probably did not know how to manage. Sometime it is just bad luck so we have to be sure that we are ready to deal with things before we get ourselves and our own animals in trouble. And time, lots of time.
http://www.pitbullforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=34479
Thursday, June 2, 2011
Heartguard Plus Lawsuit: Fired for Protecting Dogs or Disgruntled Employee?
Findlaw published an article today detailing a lawsuit against the manufacturer of Heartguard Plus that alleges the company fired her after she discovered "the company had intentionally utilized improper data analysis methods to ward off an FDA investigation."
She's not just any former employee, though. She's Dr. Kari Blaho-Owens, the former Global Head of Pharmacovigilance, which means she oversaw the collection and analysis of adverse reactions to drugs the company manufactured. Her lawsuit alleges that she discovered Heartguard Plus is not 100% effective, despite the company's claims otherwise, and that she was instructed to destroy documents that were relevant evidence in a class action lawsuit against the company.
Of course, her allegations are just that -- allegations. However, there are a few shady facts staining the company's reputation, including two FDA warning letters (one in 2007, available here). You can also read the earlier class action lawsuit against the company here.
Another article (scroll down) tells that when one dog contracted heartworm disease after being on Heartguard Plus, the company paid for the dog's treatment after investigating and finding that the owner's compliance with giving the preventative to her dog was substantial.
She's not just any former employee, though. She's Dr. Kari Blaho-Owens, the former Global Head of Pharmacovigilance, which means she oversaw the collection and analysis of adverse reactions to drugs the company manufactured. Her lawsuit alleges that she discovered Heartguard Plus is not 100% effective, despite the company's claims otherwise, and that she was instructed to destroy documents that were relevant evidence in a class action lawsuit against the company.
Of course, her allegations are just that -- allegations. However, there are a few shady facts staining the company's reputation, including two FDA warning letters (one in 2007, available here). You can also read the earlier class action lawsuit against the company here.
Another article (scroll down) tells that when one dog contracted heartworm disease after being on Heartguard Plus, the company paid for the dog's treatment after investigating and finding that the owner's compliance with giving the preventative to her dog was substantial.
Monday, May 30, 2011
When a Cane Corso Becomes a Pit Bull: Tragedy in New York
The New York Daily News reported on Saturday May 28th about the tragic death of a Brooklyn boy mauled to death by the family's Pit Bull. On Sunday, it changed the headline and story, complete with a photo, to identify the dog as a Cane Corso. The headline, which originally read, "Brooklyn boy mauled to death inside his apartment by 'violent' pit bull, chaotic scene follows" was changed to, "Brooklyn boy mauled to death inside his apartment by 'violent' mastiff, chaotic scene follows." (We note the url still includes 'pit bull').
The original first sentence of the story read, "A 4-year-old boy died after he was savagely mauled by a pit bull inside his Brooklyn apartment Friday night, cops and witnesses said."
The revised first sentence now reads, "A 4-year-old boy left alone for a minute by his mother was killed when a family dog savagely mauled him as his two terrified brothers watched helplessly, cops and witnesses said." Not until the seventh paragraph does the story identify the dog as a Cane Corso.
This reporting demonstrates not only that the media is quick to report a dog mauling as being perpetrated by a Pit Bull, but that news organizations will report differently on the same story based solely on the breed of dog involved. If the reporter believes the dog to be a Pit Bull, Pit Bull is in the headline and the first sentence. If the dog is not a Pit Bull, the reporter won't mention the breed until several paragraphs into the story.
Unfortunately, knowing what breed was involved here doesn't help the boy, who has lost his life. Nor does this story demonstrate that Cane Corsos are inherently dangerous dogs. What this story demonstrates is that any breed of dog, in the wrong hands, can be dangerous. There is no doubt this dog demonstrated dangerous propensities before this incident, and the family chose to keep the dog in the home with several young children.
I would like to make a point here about a correlation the sensationalized news story seems to erroneously make. The story reports the "killer dog" reportedly killed the family's rabbit earlier, presumably as evidence that such an act proves a dog to be dangerous to people. Educated dog people know that not to be an accurate assumption. Dogs are prey-driven animals, as are cats (who frequently kill birds and rodents when left to roam). Each dog has different levels of prey drive, but many dogs chase cats, squirrels, rabbits and other small animals, and this instinct to chase and catch/kill small animals does not indicate a dog is a danger to humans.
Certainly a dog CAN be be both aggressive to small animals and to humans, or it can be aggressive to people and not animals, or vice versa. And it is true that SOME dogs may view small children crawling on the ground as prey. Some dogs, not all. Many dogs love kids of all ages at first sight and recognize them to be youngsters of the human variety. Other dogs are more unsure, some are downright frightened of young children and others view them as a potential toys or prey. At any rate, that particular behavior would have been obvious before the mauling if the parents were paying attention and, regardless, it is never a good idea to leave any dog, especially a large one, alone with children (but even small dogs have caused death and serious injuries to young children).
Whenever stories like this make the news, the factors are almost always the same and include a young child left unsupervised with a dog capable of causing him or her serious harm. Often, the family is uneducated about dog ownership and, more often than not, outright irresponsible about owning such dogs. Large dogs are popular as "guard dogs," and those who seek out guard dogs are usually looking for dogs that WILL bite someone (presumably to protect the family's home).
But dog owners should be aware that dogs with a low bite threshold (meaning it takes very little to make them bite a stranger) are also much more likely to bite harm a member of the family.
We don't really know much about what happened other than what the story reports (and this particular news agency hasn't given me much confidence about its dedication to accuracy. However, we do know another child has lost his life because of poor parental supervision.
No doubt, the Cane Corso enthusiasts are disheartened by this story. Is the Cane Corso the next breed to be misused and misbred by irresponsible people wanting a tough, aggressive guard dog? Let's hope not. Too many good dogs and great breeds have been devastated by these dangerous humans.
[Link to the story]
The original first sentence of the story read, "A 4-year-old boy died after he was savagely mauled by a pit bull inside his Brooklyn apartment Friday night, cops and witnesses said."
The revised first sentence now reads, "A 4-year-old boy left alone for a minute by his mother was killed when a family dog savagely mauled him as his two terrified brothers watched helplessly, cops and witnesses said." Not until the seventh paragraph does the story identify the dog as a Cane Corso.
This reporting demonstrates not only that the media is quick to report a dog mauling as being perpetrated by a Pit Bull, but that news organizations will report differently on the same story based solely on the breed of dog involved. If the reporter believes the dog to be a Pit Bull, Pit Bull is in the headline and the first sentence. If the dog is not a Pit Bull, the reporter won't mention the breed until several paragraphs into the story.
Unfortunately, knowing what breed was involved here doesn't help the boy, who has lost his life. Nor does this story demonstrate that Cane Corsos are inherently dangerous dogs. What this story demonstrates is that any breed of dog, in the wrong hands, can be dangerous. There is no doubt this dog demonstrated dangerous propensities before this incident, and the family chose to keep the dog in the home with several young children.
I would like to make a point here about a correlation the sensationalized news story seems to erroneously make. The story reports the "killer dog" reportedly killed the family's rabbit earlier, presumably as evidence that such an act proves a dog to be dangerous to people. Educated dog people know that not to be an accurate assumption. Dogs are prey-driven animals, as are cats (who frequently kill birds and rodents when left to roam). Each dog has different levels of prey drive, but many dogs chase cats, squirrels, rabbits and other small animals, and this instinct to chase and catch/kill small animals does not indicate a dog is a danger to humans.
Certainly a dog CAN be be both aggressive to small animals and to humans, or it can be aggressive to people and not animals, or vice versa. And it is true that SOME dogs may view small children crawling on the ground as prey. Some dogs, not all. Many dogs love kids of all ages at first sight and recognize them to be youngsters of the human variety. Other dogs are more unsure, some are downright frightened of young children and others view them as a potential toys or prey. At any rate, that particular behavior would have been obvious before the mauling if the parents were paying attention and, regardless, it is never a good idea to leave any dog, especially a large one, alone with children (but even small dogs have caused death and serious injuries to young children).
Whenever stories like this make the news, the factors are almost always the same and include a young child left unsupervised with a dog capable of causing him or her serious harm. Often, the family is uneducated about dog ownership and, more often than not, outright irresponsible about owning such dogs. Large dogs are popular as "guard dogs," and those who seek out guard dogs are usually looking for dogs that WILL bite someone (presumably to protect the family's home).
But dog owners should be aware that dogs with a low bite threshold (meaning it takes very little to make them bite a stranger) are also much more likely to bite harm a member of the family.
We don't really know much about what happened other than what the story reports (and this particular news agency hasn't given me much confidence about its dedication to accuracy. However, we do know another child has lost his life because of poor parental supervision.
No doubt, the Cane Corso enthusiasts are disheartened by this story. Is the Cane Corso the next breed to be misused and misbred by irresponsible people wanting a tough, aggressive guard dog? Let's hope not. Too many good dogs and great breeds have been devastated by these dangerous humans.
[Link to the story]
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